Chinese Silk — Traditions, Utilizations, Fabrics, Embroideries, Products, and Art

Chinese Silk has been one of the most beautiful, exquisite fashions throughout history, which carries splendid artistic and cultural values.

Chinese Silk with Exquisite Embroideries of the Western Han Dynasty (202 BC — 8 AD) — Hunan Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Invention of Chinese Silk

Invention Story and Cultural Meaning of Ancient Chinese Silk

Leizu, the Silk Goddess

Leizu, the empress of the Yellow Emperor (about 2717 BC — 2599 BC), is the Silk Goddess recorded by many ancient historians.

After discovering how silkworm cocoons unwrapped and found the means to weave those threads, she researched and formed the sericulture, including planting mulberry trees, rearing silkworms, drawing threads, and weaving them into soft and fabulous silk fabrics.

Empresses and Sericulture Rites

From the Zhou Dynasty (1046 BC — 256 BC) to the last feudal empire Qing (1636 — 1912), all Chinese Empresses would hold Sericulture Rite, in Chinese "Qin Can Li", in spring to set an example of being diligent, encourage women, the major silk producers in ancient history, to work hard and contribute on weaving industry, and pray for good harvests.

This had been one of the most important rituals for empresses of China and usually would last for days.

On the rite, an empress would wear her most solemn ceremonial dress, lead all imperial concubines, worship the Silk Goddess Leizu, and do a whole set of sericultural works.

Part of Sericulture Rite or Qin Can Li Hold by Empress Xiaoxianchun (1712 — 1748) the Beloved Wife of Qianlong Emperor, Painted by Giuseppe Castiglione

Part of Sericulture Rite or Qin Can Li Hold by Empress Xiaoxianchun (1712 — 1748) the Beloved Wife of Qianlong Emperor, Painted by Court Artist Giuseppe Castiglione — Taipei Palace Museum

Symbolism and Importance of Silkworms

Since the Neolithic era, sericulture made the silkworm one of the most important necessities of people's lives, hence a significant offering in ancient grand worship ceremonies.

Meanwhile, a silkworm can grow into a cocoon, which later would break and fly out of a moth, this whole process has been believed to be a representative of a life circle, from one's birth to death, and then the soul's flying to heaven.

Therefore, silk and silkworm-shaped stones and jade articles had been used as divine sacrificial offerings in ancient holy rites to pray for good harvests and wealthy lives and as shroud and burial objects in nobles' tombs wishing for their souls' successful journeys to heaven or rebirth.

Jade Silkworm of the Shang (1600 BC — 1046 BC) or Western Zhou (1046 BC — 771 BC) Dynasties — The Art Institute of Chicago (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Use

History and Utilizations of Chinese Silk Products

To Wear — Chinese Silk Robe and Dress

Since silk was invented during the Neolithic period, silk robes and dresses have been exclusively popular for royals and nobles, later spread to rich people.

Until Sui (589 — 619), Tang (618 — 907), and Song (960 — 1279) dynasties, the silk industries developed to an advanced level, and silk clothes entered the civilian world.

Colors and patterns, however, still followed strict hierarchies.

Chinese Silk Dresses of Court Ladies in Painting "Zanhua Shinv Tu", By Artist Zhou Fang of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907)

Silk Dresses of Court Ladies in Painting "Zanhua Shinv Tu", By Artist Zhou Fang of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907) — Liaoning Museum

To Highlight — Patterns on Chinese Silk Fabrics

Since the Zhou Dynasty (1046 BC — 256 BC), when royals and nobles exclusively wore silk clothes, some patterns had been regulated as symbols of sovereignty, such as the 12 Imperial Patterns.

Later, during Emperor Wu Zetian's reign (690 — 705), officials started to use silk threads to embroider animal designs, birds for civil officials, and beasts for military officials, on their robes as hierarchical patterns, which was named Mandarin Square or Buzi.

Red-crowned Crane Embroidery Mandarin Square or Buzi on Chinese Silk Robe of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644)

Red-crowned Crane Embroidery Mandarin Square or Buzi on Silk Robe of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644) — Confucius Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

For officials' daily clothes and civilians' outfits, widely used auspicious patterns include flowers, birds, animals, fruits, landscapes, myths and legends, historical figures and stories, etc.

Click to Read More About the Use of Colors and Patterns

Exquisite Patterns of Silk Textile on Dress of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) — Tsinghua University Art Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

To Write — Imperial Decrees, Poems, Articles, and Calligraphies

Before paper was invented during the Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD), silk was used as an important writing material for royals, while cheaper bamboo and wood were for ordinary people.

After the paper was invented and widespread, however, silk continued to be used as the only writing material for Imperial Decrees until the fall of the last feudal Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912).

Moreover, today, some people still write poems, articles, and calligraphy work on silk, which is more solid, durable, and fancier than paper.

Calligraphy Work on Chinese Silk Written By Emperor Zhao Ji (1082 — 1135)

Calligraphy Work on Silk Written By Emperor Zhao Ji (1082 — 1135) — Shanghai Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

To Draw — Chinese Silk Painting

Throughout history, different types of silk have been important painting materials.

Landscapes, flowers, birds, animals, mythical creatures, and figures are common objects in Chinese Silk Paintings.

Click to Read More About Chinese Paintings

Part of Silk Painting "Luoshen Fu" by artist Gu Kaizhi (348 — 405). This is the copied version by people of the Song Dynasty (960 — 1279), preserved in the Palace Museum.

To Adorn — Chinese Silk Fan, Scarf, Pendants, Flower, and Ornaments

Besides clothes, with the development of silk cultivation, it has been widely used to make other accessories, including Chinese Fans, scarfs, sachets, silk flowers, hair ornaments, and handkerchiefs.

Silk Fan with Carved Ebony Handle of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) — Palace Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

To Decorate — Chinese Silk Screen, Rug, and Lantern

For royals and rich people, silk has been a popular material to be used as home decorations, which could be made into exquisite silk screens, rugs, sheets, and lanterns to show the owner's wealth and aesthetic tastes.

Silk Hanging Screen With Exquisite Embroideries of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) — Guangdong Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

To Trade and Pay — Silk Road and Silk As Currency

After the Silk Road was opened by Zhang Qian (164 BC — 114 BC) in Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD), silk and other products were traded from China to other countries on these international routes.

Moreover, because of its great value, silk served as currency in Chinese history, for people to buy stuff and pay taxes, for governments to pay for salaries and buy commodities from foreign countries, and for luxurious awards and gifts.

Silk Brocade Barcer of the Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD) — Xinjiang Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Types

Types of Silk Fabrics and Textiles

Regarding weaving, different interplaying relationships of wefts and warps form other gloss and tactile sensations of silk fabrics, which include six main types.

Ling or Damask

Ling or Damask, the twill silk cloth woven with diagonal parallel ridges, is thin, smooth, and soft.

Ling originated before the Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD) and thrived in Tang (618 — 907) and Song (960 — 1279) dynasties as a clothing fabric.

Afterward, Ling has been widely used in mounting painting and calligraphy work.

Flower-Patterned Chinese Silk Ling of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907)

Flower-Patterned Silk Ling of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907) — Qinghai Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Luo or Gauze

Luo is a silk fabric woven with stranded warps, which is translucent and thin, like Gauze.

Having appeared no later than Spring and Autumn Period (770 BC — 403 BC), Luo has been widely used to make summer clothes.

Chinese Silk Luo of the Song Dynasty (960 — 1279) With Exquisite Embroideries

Silk Luo of the Song Dynasty (960 — 1279) With Exquisite Embroideries — Fujian Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Chou or Pongee

Originating in Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD), Chou has been the most common Chinese silk fabric as clothing material, with a tight texture and soft quality.

Chinese Silk Chou of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) With Embroideries

Silk Chou of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) With Embroideries — Tsinghua University Art Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Duan or Satin

Duan is the smoothest and brightest silk fabric invented during the Yuan Dynasty (1271 — 1368).

Since then, even though Duan is also the most fragile silk cloth, it soon became the most popular clothing material for its lustrous and resplendent beauty.

Chinese Silk Duan With Exquisite Embroideries, on Imperial Robe of Qianlong Emperor (1711 — 1799)

Silk Duan With Exquisite Embroideries, on Imperial Robe of Qianlong Emperor (1711 — 1799) — Palace Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Jin or Brocade

Jin or Brocade is the most expansive and valuable silk fabric in ancient times, with stereoscopic and exquisite patterns woven using colorful silk wefts and warps, sometimes fine metal threads.

Originated no later than the Warring States Period (403 BC — 221 BC), there developed four fabulous brocades in China: Yun Brocade from Nanjing, Shu Brocade from Chengdu, Song Brocade from Suzhou, and Zhuang Brocade from Guangxi.

Chinese Silk Jin or Brocade of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644), Woven Using Silk and Gold Threads

Silk Jin or Brocade of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644), Woven Using Silk and Gold Threads — Tokyo National Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Juan or Chiffon

Juan is a thin, light, and flat type of plain-woven fabric.

It originated during the Neolithic era and had been used as the painting canvas before paper was invented in Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD).

Chinese Silk Juan Cloth of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907)

Silk Juan Cloth of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907) — Xinjiang Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Embroideries

Famous Chinese Embroideries on Silk and Their Splendid Artistic Values

Besides woven patterns, embroidery has been widely used on silk fabrics as exquisite silk art through needles and threads.

Today, there are four main Chinese Embroidery Genres, Su (Jiangsu Province), Shu (Sichuan Province), Xiang (Hunan Province), and Yue (Guangdong Province).

They differ in styles and characteristics, but they all have bright colors, delicate stitchings, and vivid and beautiful patterns.

Splendid Embroideries on Silk Cloth of the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912) — Guangdong Folk Art Museum (Photo by Dongmaiying)