Hair Ornaments Culture — Chinese Hairpins, Crowns, and Other Decorations

Importance of Hair in Ancient Chinese Culture

In ancient Chinese culture, hair was considered an important body part; it was given by parents and couldn’t be cut casually.

When a boy turned 20 or a girl turned 15, their parents would hold them a Coming of Age Ceremony, in which they would change their hairstyle and hair ornaments.

This had been one of the grandest rites in one’s lifetime, representing a turning point of becoming an adult ready to take on specific responsibilities.

In a Traditional Chinese Wedding, tying a strand of the new couple’s hair together was a meaningful ceremony, meaning they would be connected forever.

In the former Polygamy society, only one’s wife was qualified to have this Bind Up Hair Rite with her husband; other inferior concubines were not allowed to do so.

Therefore, in ancient Chinese history, cutting off a wisp of one’s hair and giving it to someone implied sincere love and willingness to commit.

Women's Headdress and Hairstyle of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644) in the painting "Beautiful Ladies" by artist Qiu Ying (about 1498 — 1552).

Chinese Hairpin — Zan

In the Neolithic era, Zan was used to fasten and tie hair since the disheveled hair was impolite and coarse in the ancient tradition of China.

Gradually, the use of hairpins became representative of being an adult.

When women turned 15 years old, there would be a Coming of Age Ceremony to put on hairpins and tie the hair up, meaning they were adults who were available for marriage.

Zan could be made of materials such as bone, stone, pottery, shell, bamboo, timber, horn, jade, copper, silver, or gold.

The end of the hairpin was usually decorated with beautiful flowers or lucky animals.

Zan Cultural Relics

Double Stringed Hairpin — Chai

Chai was a type of hair ornament that evolved from Zan, also used to fasten and tie hair.

But the most important difference is that Chai has two sticks, which look like two Zans connected.

Chai is frequently mentioned in poems and articles as an important symbol and a Keepsake of Love in Chinese Culture.

In Chinese tradition, when a couple had to separate for a while, the woman usually would split her Chai into two parts, and give one piece to her beloved one as a keepsake, until they reunited someday.

Jade Chai of the Sui Dynasty (589 — 619)

Jade Chai of Sui Dynasty (589 — 619) — National Museum of China (By Dongmaiying)

Gold Chai of the Yuan Dynasty (1271 — 1368) — Wuhan Museum (By Dongmaiying)

Step Shake — Buyao Hairpin

Buyao hairpin became popular in the Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD) when it was only allowed to be worn by noblewomen in the royal family.

As a representative of status, Buyao was made of gold, silver, jade, agate, and other valuable materials.

It looks like a hairpin Zan, but with pendants or fringes, which would swing when someone is wearing it and walking.

Buyao, the Step Shake, was named because of it.

Centuries after the Han Dynasty ended, Buyao entered the civilian world.

When all the women were allowed to wear the Buyao, more materials were included in making them.

Nowadays, hair ornaments with exquisite pendants or fringes are still prevalent in China.

Buyao Cultural Relics

Headwear for Men — Guan

Guan was a common headwear for men in history, featuring different types that indicated people's social status.

In ancient times, when a man turned 20, he would start wearing Guan as part of the Coming of Age ceremony.

After having one’s hair bound up on top of the head, a Guan (a common one named Shu Fa) was used to decorate the tied hair.

Until the Qing Dynasty (1636 — 1912), the Manchu rulers forced men to shave half of their hair and have a braid, Guan (Shu Fa), and the Coming of Age Ceremony came to an end.

Now, Chinese men keep short hair, so Guan stays in history for good, but the Coming of Age Ceremony has been recovered in many places.

Chinese Comb — Shubi

Shubi originated about 6000 years ago and was an important hair ornament in the history of China.

At first, it was used to comb and clean hair.

Bone, ivory, bamboo, timber, horn, silver, gold, jade, compound metal, or crystal could be used to make Shubi.

In traditional Chinese Medicine, combing hair is an efficient way to keep healthy; it is believed to massage nerves and stimulate blood circulation.

Meanwhile, different hair quality and body conditions are suggested to use combs made of other materials.

Therefore, both men and women would carry a comb for convenience.

During the Three Kingdoms, Jin, North, and South Dynasties (220 — 589), women started to put Shubi on their hair as decoration.

Therefore, more valuable materials were used, and more adornments were added to the combs.

Nowadays, Chinese women generally don’t wear it as a hair ornament. But combing hair to massage the scalp is still widely used to keep healthy.

Hair Decorations in Different Positions — Yan Bin, Ding Zan, Tiao Xin, Fen Xin

In the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644), it was famous for women to use exquisite hair ornaments in different positions in buns.

Hair ornament Yan Bin

Hair ornament Ding Zan

Hair ornament Tiao Xin

Hair ornament Fen Xin

On important occasions, having one’s buns well decorated using the whole package represented elegance and social status.

Here are some exquisite unearthed hair decorations of the Ming Dynasty:

Lotus Crown — Lian Hua Guan

Lotus Crown was originally from Taoism Religion, which the most powerful and talented masters only wore.

Since the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907), when Taoism was respected as the national religion, the Lotus Crown became famous among women of both noble and civilian families.

Generally, the Lotus Crown worn by women looked like a lotus but was slightly different from the Taoists’.

Phoenix Crown — Feng Guan

The Phoenix Crown was only allowed to be worn by queens in ancient Chinese history.

It was shaped like dragons and phoenixes and decorated with hundreds of precious gems and pearls. Chinese Empresses would wear it on important occasions.

Gradually, noble ladies were also allowed to wear Phoenix Crowns but still followed strict standards regarding size, the material of the crowns, and the numbers and shapes of phoenixes and dragons on them.

Then, civilian women could wear a Phoenix Crown on their wedding day once, though their crowns were usually made of less luxurious materials and simpler designs.

Today, some brides in China still wear a Phoenix Crown on their wedding day if they choose to wear a traditional Chinese wedding dress instead of a white bridal gown.

Phoenix Crown of the Sui Dynasty (589 — 619), Unearthed from Mausoleum of Emperor Yang Guang and His Queen Xiao — Yangzhou Museum (Photo by Xinshuiling)

Phoenix Crown of the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644), Unearthed from Mausoleum of Emperor Wanli and His Queen Xiaoduan — National Museum of China (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Forehead Decoration — Hua Sheng

Hua Sheng was documented about 2000 years ago in the history of China, but the exact origin is unclear.

It looks flower-shaped, usually worn in one’s hair to cover part of the forehead, like a beautiful bang.

Gilding Silver Hair Ornament Hua Sheng of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907)

Gilding Silver Hair Ornament of the Tang Dynasty (618 — 907) — Shaanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology (Photo by Dongmaiying)

Forehead Decoration — Mo E

Mo E, a strand of fur or fabric worn on one’s forehead to keep warm, originated in northern China.

In the Qin Dynasty (221 BC — 207 BC), Mo E was exclusively used in the army to organize and manage soldiers.

A millennium later, more exquisite decorations and valuable materials were used to make Mo E. Around the same era, women started to wear it too.

Centuries later, in the Ming Dynasty (1368 — 1644), Mo E became popular among everyone, from royals to civilians; it could be used for keeping warm in winter or as pure decoration.

Silk, gold, silver, fur, and yarn were all common materials of Mo E, decorated with pearls, gems, jade, and embroideries.

Forehead decoration for male

Forehead decoration for woman

Referential of Excellent Women — Jin Guo

Jin Guo was a hair ornament made of fabric, usually decorated with gold, gem, or jade.

Since the Han Dynasty (202 BC — 220 AD), women wore Jin Guo exclusively.

Gradually, Jin Guo also refers to women.

Today, women in China don’t wear it daily, but Jin Guo is still referential of women, especially those smart and brave ones.